40 NSC rusty tanks, oily bilges and cracked transom door

[BoatBuddy]

Hello! 1st question... Does anyone have the tankage arrangement layout of the 40 NSC? I am looking at one and am wondering what the large athwartship rectangular tank is that lies beneath the forward stairs in the aft cabin. The boat I looked at had a very rusty, paint-peeled mild steel tank with a very large circular access port and had ball valved red hoses running forward through the engine room aft bulkhead, seemingly to the fuel seperators. A past survey on the boat provided indicates that the fuel tanks (400 gal) are stainless steel and are factory tested to 4psi. The bilge was full of water when I got on the boat, and was left with a black oily fluid (oil or fuel, I don't know) when the bilge pump was done (in the engine room too). I was told that it was merely residue from a previous but recent oil change. It is very hard to inspect the tanks, as it seems that may are buried beneath the engine room decking, which is all screwed in place. A Power and MotorYacht review by Bill Pike in 2006 seems to indicate the fuel tanks are outboard of the engines and span the engineroom and salon decks (with sight tubes). I'm confused!

As a second question, has anyone had to repair a deep crack on all three sides of the transom door frame (inboard side), as well as a crack along the top aft edge of the bridge coaming (close to the venturi windshield brackets? The transom around the door seems to be a hollow shell where the deck and hull molds come together, so there does not seem to be a core delamination issue. The decks and hull in general seem dry... aft cabin windows re-sealed and woodwork redone. Thank you in advance for any info you can provide!

[Marcy K]

Hi
Did you already buy this boat? I think your nose would tell you if the residue was fuel - diesel is pretty strong smelling. We had water in the bilge that had a sheen on it when we looked at our boat. The PO assured us that it was from a recent oil change and he had spilled "a little" in the bilge. Not so - we found out after one season, the oil was from the leaking rear main oil seal and we had to have that work done the following year.. It was then a good time to change the motor mounts while the engine was disconnected from the transmission and lifted up. We have a 34 so can't comment on your other questions. Good luck.

Marcy K
A 34 Paumanok 1986
Red Brook Harbor, MA

[jleonard]

Bob, I answered your PM but I'll answer again here and maybe it will encourage someone else to reply.
I would be worried that the water penetrated the fiberglass skin someplace and then froze. You'd have to inspect carefully for sings of that and also for freezing inside anything mechanical that was submerged.
Rust tanks are a problem, but depending on the amount of rust maybe not so bad.
Oil in the bilge can be from many sources as Marcy pointed out. Maybe only from carelessness. You need to find the source, there should be some tell tale signs...streaks, drips, stains, etc.
The stress cracks can be fixed I'm sure, but I suspect from your description that because of the cross sectional differences of the surroundings you may want to change/increase the corner radii when you repair it so it gets strengthened. Or add to the inside if that's possible. Otherwise it will crack again.
If the weather ever gets warmer around here I might be able to be convinced to drive to Groton and take a look some day if you are still interested in the boat. (a free lunch might convince me ) Currently I am working 3 days a week on a contract gig, I'm sure I can squeeze in some time.

[BoatBuddy]

Many reads, only 2 replies (thanks)... I will try to simplify the questions in hopes of getting some feedback from owners of this boat model. I have not bought the boat, just trying to get a feel for how common and extensive the damage is. I know there were only 13 of the 40' North Sea Cutters made, but can't anyone tell me:

1) What does the tank under the forward stairs in the aft cabin hold, and why is it painted black iron on a 2006 boat? (I can not see where the hoses go, and have found nothing online, except for a 2005 Power and MotorYacht review which seemed to indicate the tanks should be aluminum...)

2) Does anyone know if long cracks all the way through the hollow fiberglass both all around the transom door frame and all along the top of the bridge coaming are common and spread, or how expensive they are to fix?

Thank you in advance for any wisdom shared...

[JerseyNSC40]

Probably because thee are not of 40 owners out there, I am one and can help you. I have a 2006 which I am the first owner on and purchased in 2009. I had very good surveyor and I am a Capt and have figured the systems out on these boats over the last 5 years. The hulls were built in a reputable yard in China where they build heavy work boats, notice the rudder stocks and the fact the shafts are 2 1/2 inches with 26 inch propellers. They have stringers at about 18 inches that are very beefy, pull the forward bilge access under the steps to the forward stateroom and you will see them.
The tanks are made of pig iron according to my survey and are very sturdy, they do usually have some surface rust which can be cleaned and painted. The tank you are looking at is the aft tank and is about 80 gallons. There is a pump and 2 directional control valves in the aft area of the engine room which allows you to distribute this fuel to either of the 2 saddle tanks. These hold 160 gallons each, so the total fuel capacity is 400 gallons. I have site gauges on the tanks so you can see exactly how much fuel you have. the bilge area there is normally just rainwater form the engine access vents on the sides on the cabin.
I have seen 3 of these boats and none have the type of cracks you are describing in the transom. Fiberglass can be repaired but I have no idea how severe the damage is? It does not sound horrible.
I believe you may be looking at a white hull model in CT? This is tough to say but I do not think the dealer there is very reputable, if it is Robt Christopher? I base this on someone else who bought from them and was terribly disappointed. They took their NSC40 to FL and subsequently sold it. It was a great trip for them down the ICW and the boat did well.
I have had my boat out in bad weather and it is a pleasure, it handles like a dream in close quarters.

I would be happy to help you as I am in NJ. there are other 40's available in perhaps much better shape. Most people think mine is a Saber or Grand Banks, for less money.

Let me know if you want to talk, etc? Craig

[whwells]

BoatBuddy: These are a lot of boat for the dollar. I did look at one on the West Coast a 2006. It was a one owner that had so many leaks it was simply a mess. From what I was told it had bad leaks from the day of delivery. You could spend a lot of money on repairs and still not have a resaleable boat. My pesonal opinion is buy it cheap or not at all. I would not want to be in this model more than 50% of value and that is high.
The seller knows the history no doubt so bid very low!
whwells "Howard;
2006 SABRE 42 FLYBRIDGE
FORMER: 35TE ALBIN SPORTFISHER FLYBRIDGE 2006
2004 OSPREY PILOTHOUSE 22

[BoatBuddy]

Yes, Craig... I would like to talk... I sent you a PM and a email message with my contact info... give me a call when you can. Thanks.

[jleonard]

The tanks are made of pig iron according to my survey and are very sturdy, they do usually have some surface rust which can be cleaned and painted. Craig

I doubt they are made of "pig iron" but more than likely made from hot rolled steel with a higher level of impurities that you would see in US made steel.