Modifications, repairs and improvements, 28TE

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GSSeattle
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I don't remember having to take apart the cooling system for the hidden port side zinc, but I did need to buy a flex-head ratcheting wrench specifically for that one. If I recall I could get about an eighth of a turn on that one with all the hoses that were blocking. Lots of cursing and a few trips to the hardware store later...

In my saltwater boat, I haven't seen swelling on the zincs per se, but they are certainly starting to crumble. I'll have to look closer next time.
Greg

2000 Albin 28 TE "Turtle Express"
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Norseman
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GSSeattle wrote: Wed Jun 23, 2021 3:18 pm I don't remember having to take apart the cooling system for the hidden port side zinc, but I did need to buy a flex-head ratcheting wrench specifically for that one. If I recall I could get about an eighth of a turn on that one with all the hoses that were blocking. Lots of cursing and a few trips to the hardware store later...

In my saltwater boat, I haven't seen swelling on the zincs per se, but they are certainly starting to crumble. I'll have to look closer next time.
Cool: I have tried a flex head wrench as well, but too many hoses and stuff in the way.
Last year I removed a few hoses and hose clamps to access the anode, but it was too swollen and it broke inside the heat exchanger when I attempted the extraction. (Where is your dentist when you need him/her?? :shock: )
Then I had to remove even more bits and pieces to remove the end cap and retrieve the broken pencil zinc. (At that time I should have rotated the end cap 180 degrees to make future zinc R&R easier, but did not think fast enough, put everything back where it was originally. :shock: )
I will probably do this tomorrow and will report back: Perhaps it gets easier every time: This should be the 4th annual service on the Yanmar, the first one was no walk in the park. Maybe this one will be.. :mrgreen:
Last edited by Norseman on Fri Jun 25, 2021 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Norseman
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The last and most difficult to reach anode was removed and replaced today:
No growth and no flaking on this one.
A5790C29-0EEE-4CB4-AF76-A5E7D2D1981E.jpeg
I only removed one hose today: Between the tranny cooler and the heat exchanger.
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Last year I had to remove several hoses and bits and pieces to remove the end cap of the heat exchanger as the anode had broken off inside the tube. :shock:

Total time today was about 90 minutes, including getting tools, test run the engine for leak check and cleaning up etc.
What took the longest time was getting this hose clamp back on in the correct position, pretty tight access.
(The red caps are not only for protecting the skin, but also to remind me which hose clamps are new and of the solid band type. The plan is to replace all clamps)
7A4103C6-C398-449E-A02C-2FA1C4FE96E1.jpeg
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Norseman
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Too far gone I guess:
Tried to extract the used zinc from the bronze nut: No cigar, the pencil broke off.
DB89A928-3E9E-48CD-B018-4C8FD284DDE3.jpeg
Not a big deal, but it gets expensive after a while. :shock:
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MerryKate
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Norseman - you can melt out the zinc with a propane torch, if it's worth the time...
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Tree
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MerryKate wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:39 am Norseman - you can melt out the zinc with a propane torch, if it's worth the time...
it also dissolves in rydlyme
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Hull Number AUL28489L900
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MerryKate wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:39 am Norseman - you can melt out the zinc with a propane torch, if it's worth the time...
Ha, never thought of that, good idea. :!:

it also dissolves in rydlyme
You leave them in the rudlyme overnight?
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Tree
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Yep - vinegar may even work. I machine my own anodes from stock bar and just screw them back into the plugs. I’ve also machined a spare set of plugs so I can just swap them out.
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Built in Portsmouth RI, USA - Berthed in Portsmouth Hampshire, United Kingdom.
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Norseman
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Tree wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 1:01 pm Yep - vinegar may even work. I machine my own anodes from stock bar and just screw them back into the plugs. I’ve also machined a spare set of plugs so I can just swap them out.
Wow, got your own machine shop?

I used to make stuff when I lived in Europe, but then I moved to the US and became lazy. :mrgreen:
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,250 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Tree
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Norseman wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 2:28 pm
Tree wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 1:01 pm Yep - vinegar may even work. I machine my own anodes from stock bar and just screw them back into the plugs. I’ve also machined a spare set of plugs so I can just swap them out.
Wow, got your own machine shop?

I used to make stuff when I lived in Europe, but then I moved to the US and became lazy. :mrgreen:
Yep. Stocked full of CNC mills and lathes.

Think the photo maybe upside down - it’s an apple thing!
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Norseman
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Wow, nice shop.
:shock:
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Time for routine detailing with fresh wax.
Probably 9-10 months since the last beauty treatment, badly needed as the Florida sun burns though any protective coatings and then chalks the gelcoat. :shock:
Got the best guy in town to do it, surprised a guy my age can keep doing it forever, and no hat..

I am sitting in the shade, supervising with a cold beer, good at that. 8)
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(Picture is 90 degrees off on my iPad, but when I click on the picture it goes right side up. :shock: )

(Edit: Not just a wax job, this is full clean, and compound, then wax job.. When I hired this guy back in 2017 he had to do all of the above, and also wet sanding as the boat was badly oxidized. See story early this thread, I think he spent 73 hours to bring the boat back to look brand new)
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Making progress, see shine on hull behind the air intake.
So far he is 15 hours into the job.
5 to go. :shock:
B04248FC-2F95-43A5-BB4C-BA71C2AD2840.jpeg
Edit:
Just now checked the maintenance log: 12 months since the last polish and wax below the rub rail, 10 months since the same above the rub rail.

Too much build up of salt and gunk on the gelcoat below the rub rail, even when I rinse the boat after every trip in the ocean with “Salt Away” and rinse with fresh water after every trip in brackish river and canal water.
The expert had to use acid to clean the hull below the rub rail before he could compound, polish and wax. :!:
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The shine is back..
Total of 22.5 hours of work. (I did not count the breaks and lunch etc.)
Billed $800, I added a $50 tip, about $37.75 per hour. I supplied the polish/wax, the detail guy supplied the remaining materials.
Happy with the results.
Brutal job in the Florida heat, and not much of a breeze the 3-4 days before Tropical Storm Elsa.
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5BD113E3-CF3B-4449-AA6D-A345F479D707.jpeg
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Bimini top maintenance:
It was pretty dirty and has some green mold underneath it.
Stuffed it in the washing machine yesterday on a heavy duty program, then dried overnight. To a canvas shop this morning for a few stitches then soaked it with water proofing today.
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Using the Star Brite stuff, half price of 303. :shock:
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Now drying for 6 hours before installation tonight.
Total cost $50.00, good as new.
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