Modifications, repairs and improvements, 28TE

[Carl]

I purchased a 2 arm model. I would try to go with a 3 arm model if you can get one small enough. Not a lot of room behind the gear and flange for the ears. Once you have it in hand you can measure and see what you can find to fit.

[Norseman]

. I purchased a 2 arm model. I would try to go with a 3 arm model if you can get one small enough. Not a lot of room behind the gear and flange for the ears. Once you have it in hand you can measure and see what you can find to fit.

It worked out, got the gear off with just a wedge and a couple of taps.
The removal of the pump however was a different story, it was a bi... because the bottom nut, the invisible one was stuck, AND it was already rounded from previous fights. Soaked it overnight in Liquid Wrench, but still stuck..
It took 10 minutes to get the top nut off, 3 hours for the bottom one with lots of swearing and sweating. Tried every trick in the book including a nut-cracker.
The solution was a really narrow belt sander with coarse sand paper, filed the nut down, then used pliers to unscrew it, slowly...
Damaged nut on the picture:

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The replacement nut would be an M10, but not sure at which pitch, 1.25 or 1.50?
The Yanmar dealer had no clue, neither did he have any M10 nuts in stock, tried a speciality store, but their minimum price was $50
The regular hardware store had M10 nuts with multiple pitch.
Will go back tomorrow and buy all the M10s, then return the ones that was the wrong pitch.
Boats for you, never easy..
(I could never do this for a living, it would wear me out, but I can see why the going rate is $110 per hour for diesel mechanics in Fort Lauderdale. )

[Carl]

Isn’t that fun? On my flush deck I can only use one hand at a time, a real PITA. Take the good nut with you and find the right bolt, then you can match that to the nuts.

[Norseman]

Isn’t that fun? On my flush deck I can only use one hand at a time, a real PITA. Take the good nut with you and find the right bolt, then you can match that to the nuts.

Yup, did that already.
I guess it is even worse on the flush deck, if that is possible?
New pump going in today.
Still don’t know if the pump is what caused the exhaust warning light as the old impeller seems intact. Could be a plastic bag stuck in the intake or a partial obstruction.
Stay tuned.

[Tree]

Exhaust warning alarm? Missed that. It’ll be the sender unit almost certainly. They wear away on the plastic shaft so won’t float upwards and therefore not making a circuit. You can repair them or replace them for $$$

This is the first boat I’ve had with one and mine failed so it’s disconnected.

It’s the 3/4” square nut on top of the intercooler with two wires coming out of it.

[Norseman]

Exhaust warning alarm? Missed that. It’ll be the sender unit almost certainly. They wear away on the plastic shaft so won’t float upwards and therefore not making a circuit. You can repair them or replace them for $$$

This is the first boat I’ve had with one and mine failed so it’s disconnected.

It’s the 3/4” square nut on top of the intercooler with two wires coming out of it.

Yeah, the alarm went off after the new raw water pump was installed today.
Found a sender unit in New Jersey for $75, will probably order it, unless I get a better deal locally.

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Take the good nut with you and find the right bolt, then you can match that to the nuts.

The generic M10 nuts from the hardware store did not fit the Yanmar studs even after I did the bolt test at the store.
Raced over to a Yanmar dealer called Sun Power, they had the correct nuts in stock. (There is a God )

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Pump is in, works good, hope it last a long time..

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(Used anti-seize on the nuts and after installation covered nuts and studs with heavy duty grease for salt water trailer wheel bearings, don’t want o go through another operation trying to remove a stuck nut.)

[Norseman]

Got the starboard trim piece back on the boat.
The fasteners had to be cut about 3/16” of an inch, the stock screws were either too short or too long. The factory fasteners looked like they had also been cut with a hack saw.
Used Clear Life Seal for caulk, easy to work with.

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[Norseman]

Got a new sensor for the exhaust warning, hopefully that will solve the problem.
Yanmar is pretty proud of their parts: Items on the picture was $195 including 2 gaskets, shipping, taxes, etc.

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[Norseman]

No cigar, the new Exhaust Flow warning sensor didn’t fix the problem, alarm still goes off.
Tested the circuit, seems normal.
Probably have a flow problem.
Need to check the inter cooler next, does the internals pull out forward, or aft on the engine box 28TE?
Found some wear and tear on the old sensor:

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[Norseman]

Air cooler is out, looks clean but a bit oily.
Is that normal...? (Never had it apart before)
Will put it back in, but need new O-rings, $17 a piece from the Yanmar dealer,
Must be made of gold..

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[Tree]

They do get oily from the crankcase breather so worth giving it a clean while it’s out. Have you pulled the hoses prior to it to see if you’ve any debris?

May also be worth putting a hose pipe back up the intake from the strainer - could be you’ve got something like a plastic bag on the skin fitting which will obviously reduce flow massively.

[Norseman]

. Have you pulled the hoses prior to it to see if you’ve any debris?

Yeah, been playing with hoses and valves, problem solved today, it was probably all the way back at the sea cock, I used a hose to back flush the system and now it seems normal. In the meantime new water pump, new hose clamps, new flow sensor, etc.
Hopefully no more unexpected problems, need to pull a few portholes and re-bed while the dry weather is going on.

[Pitou]

. Have you pulled the hoses prior to it to see if you’ve any debris?

Yeah, been playing with hoses and valves, problem solved today, it was probably all the way back at the sea cock, I used a hose to back flush the system and now it seems normal. In the meantime new water pump, new hose clamps, new flow sensor, etc.
Hopefully no more unexpected problems, need to pull a few portholes and re-bed while the dry weather is going on.

Years ago I chased a low water volume issue with my Cummins 6BTA in my 28 TE. After chasing myself around and around I finally sent an electrical snake back through the sea strainer toward the sea cock and thru hull and ended up pulling out a fair sized piece of an ice bag sleeve. How that ever got through the hull side scoop strainer is beyond me. The whole "who done it search" for the cause sure made for a long week of head scratching and knuckle busting! Glad that you think it's been worked out.

[Norseman]

. Glad that you think it's been worked out.

Yeah, I believe so, did a trial run at various power settings, no stinking exhaust alarm to be heard or seen.
Yesterday the alarm would come on every 5-10 seconds.
Pretty sure the problem is gone, but knowing boats I am always ready for the next problem and the next headache.

[Norseman]

Finally got around to replace the engine mount nuts and washers.
(Had salt water spraying from a bad exhaust connection, see post on this thread from September 21, 2019,)
Already replaced the ugly hydraulic lines with the rusted fittings and the transmission cable bracket, now got around to the rusty nuts.

$12 a piece, but glad I found them at my local Ace Hardware:
Old and new:

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Size is about 1 7/16”, or a tad above 36 MM, but a 36 socket worked ok.

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